Ce soin, aussi appelé conditionneur, s’applique après le lavage des cheveux. Sa mission : leur assurer brillance et beauté tout en facilitant le démêlage.
IL DÉMÊLE LES LONGUEURS
Grâce à des actifs démêlants tels que la gomme de guar, un ingrédient naturel qui a une bonne affinité avec le cheveu, lisse les écailles et facilite ainsi le démêlage. La présence d’huiles végétales, en particulier dans les démêlants bio, a le même effet. Les silicones et les polyquaterniums (grosses molécules de synthèse), peu chers et efficaces, jouent encore ce rôle dans certains produits.
IL DONNE DE LA BRILLANCE
Ce sont souvent les huiles végétales (ou minérales) qui s’en chargent. Cela peut être sous forme d’ester, une fraction d’huile séparée et purifiée qui s’utilise pour renforcer la brillance. Dans certains produits courants, on retrouve aussi des silicones. Ils créent une gaine autour de la fibre qui, dans un premier temps, reflète la lumière, et font briller. Mais, à long terme, les cheveux deviennent ternes, car ils ne sont pas soignés, et la brillance n’est plus au rendez-vous.
IL HYDRATE ET NOURRIT LA FIBRE
Pour hydrater, on retrouve de la kératine (complexe de protéines végétales de bas poids moléculaire), de la glycérine… Les corps gras sont là pour nourrir, comme le beurre et l’huile de karité; on utilise également des huiles de ricin, de tournesol, d’argan, de coco et de tournesol dont la présence dans la formule dépend du type de produit.
Il y en a davantage dans un soin pour cheveux secs qui ont besoin de plus de nutrition que les autres. On trouve aussi des corps gras d’origine pétrochimique (notamment, la paraffine) dans certains cas.
IL GAINE LE CHEVEU
Des actifs comme un dérivé de gomme de guar et les protéines de blé ont une bonne affinité avec le cheveu, sur lequel ils se fixent pour réparer les brèches. La fibre est plus lisse et gainée. La chevelure a un bon tombé, un beau mouvement. Elle est plus facile à mettre en forme, sans problème de frisottis. Très appréciés durant des années pour cet effet gainant, les silicones sont de moins en moins employés, car à la longue ils «plombent» les cheveux et ne sont pas biodégradables.
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